All About Aida Cloth (And Other Cross Stitch Fabrics)

Cross stitch is as simple as stitching lots of x’s onto fabric… but what kind of fabric? How big should the stitches be? What if you want to cross stitch onto something like a hat or a tote bag? Fabric gets complicated fast once you dive into it, but I’m here to explain everything you need to know about cross stitch fabrics.

The most common fabric you’ll see for cross stitch projects is Aida cloth, especially for beginners. We’ll go over what makes Aida uniquely suited for cross stitch, how it’s constructed, and what “stitch count” even means. Then, we’ll look at questions to ask when you’re picking a fabric for your project, whether you’re picking between Aida stitch counts or considering another material entirely.

Let’s get stitchy!

Aida Cloth: The Basics

Aida cloth, or simply just “Aida,” is a woven cotton fabric used by cross stitchers, beginners and experts alike, because of its specific weave and structure. Aida is an even-weave fabric (that has an almost mesh-like structure, which creates larger holes that make up “squares.” This makes Aida cloth perfect for cross stitch because you can clearly see where to make each of your stitches. Aida cloth is also more rigid than other fabrics, so if you struggle with tension or your project is too small to fit in a hoop, you can stitch in hand without needing an embroidery hoop at all. (swap out image)

Fabric Count

Aida comes in a variety of colors, patterns, and most importantly, “counts.” A fabric count describes how many woven squares there are per inch of fabric. This also determines how many stitches you will create per inch. For example, 14 count Aida has 14 squares per inch, so you would need to create 14 stitches to create a one-inch line. Larger fabric counts mean that your stitches will be smaller because you need more of them to create the same one-inch line.

This means that the same cross stitch pattern won’t be the same size across different fabric counts. Let’s use my Progress Rainbow Flag pattern as an example. The finished pattern is 40 stitches wide and 30 stitches tall. On 11 count Aida cloth, where there are 11 stitches per inch, the flag will be 3.6 inches wide. But on 16 count Aida, the same pattern will be just 2.5 inches wide.

Stitchbound patterns include finished project size for three common fabric count sizes. But in case the pattern you’re making doesn’t include these finished dimensions, you can calculate the final size by dividing the dimensions by the fabric count. For the Progress Rainbow flag, we divide 40 stitches by the 16 count fabric to get our final measurement of 2.5 inches wide. Give it a try the next time you’re looking at cross stitch patterns!

Other Common Cross Stitch Materials

In addition to Aida cloth, there are other fabrics and materials that are great for cross stitch. Any even-weave fabric can be used because, by definition, the fabric’s weave will be even throughout the entire fabric. Other woven fabrics may not have the clear holes for stitching, but stitching on them still functions the same way as on Aida.

Linen is another popular cross stitch fabric, and it comes in larger counts than Aida. This lets you make smaller, more intricate pieces, and it has a smoother appearance than Aida because the squares are smaller. You can get linen as high as 40 count or more! When fabric counts get that high, you’ll often see people who stitch “1x2,” or “one over two.” This means that the stitcher will make one stitch over two “squares.” With that 40 count linen, it’s rare to see people making 40 stitches per inch — instead, they’re probably stitching over two for an effective stitch count of 20 per inch.

Other cross stitch fabrics that are less common include Lugana, which is a cotton and viscose blend, and Jobelan, which combines cotton and rayon. These are good for when you want a softer fabric for your project, but they require good tension to get neat stitches.

But what if you want to think outside the hoop? How do you keep your stitches even if you’re stitching on a tote bag, a hat, or even a tee or another knit fabric? Waste canvas consists of individual threads held together by a water-soluble base. You can put waste canvas onto any fabric type for a clear guide on where to stitch. When you’re done, all you have to do is rinse your project to remove the base and then pull out the waste threads for a cross stitch design that will stay in place.

There are also materials besides fabric that can be used for all kinds of unique projects. Plastic canvas provides a lot more structure for projects like magnets and buttons.

Wrapping It Up

Choosing the right fabric is one of the most important parts of your cross stitch project. Aida cloth can sometimes be overlooked as a “beginners’ fabric,” but it’s easily accessible in local craft stores and makes it easier to create neat, even stitches. At Stitchbound, I focus specifically on making patterns that are approachable for beginners, so I use primarily Aida across all of my projects.

As you become a more confident stitcher, you might stick with Aida or branch out to other cross stitch fabrics we talked about in this post. Just know that the fabric you use doesn’t make you any less of a stitcher. And no matter what fabric you use, I would love to see what you create, so be sure to tag me on Instagram and Bluesky @stitchbound!

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Cross Stitch 101